Just want to share my experience of rod building, I built my first rod at age 16, now 51 have built a few.. for my myself and for friends.
It does not have to cost you $500 to build a top quality 10-foot shark rod, and you can pick your custom colors, components and fore grip and rear grip lengths. Please read on!
-ROD BLANK - This should be the most important part of your rod (not the rod guides) and probably the biggest expense of the build. PLEASE take note - Gator Glass rod blanks come "unfinished" (they show the layers of fiberglass and are not smooth) from the factory, therefore you want to FULLY coat the ENTIRE blank not just the guide wrapps.
LATE ENTRY- I assumed most would be using a Gator Glass 10-foot rod blank, which is rated for 80lb. test to Unlimitted line class. About $190.
-ROD GUIDES - You do not need to spend $100-plus in SIC rod guides! they are NOT necessary, not even for today's braided lines. FUJI - Hardloy's or even FUJI aluminum oxide guides DO NOT grove when used with braid. I do recommend sticking with FUJI for their far superior bonding of the ring to the metal frame (the ceramic does not come off the guide frame)
Metal guides - We love those foulproof (snake) guides but with time they do tend to break, and of course heat disipation is much lower then a quality ceramic ringed guide, for about another $20 you can get the FUJI alum. oxide guides (guys SIC looks nice but you do not need to spend the extra $100 on Silicon Carbide, I have used Hardloy never a problem, the guys in the Left Coast use braid for yellowfin tuna and experience no issues, Calstar factory wrapped rods are equiped with FUJI Hardloy from the factory. 
PLEASE take note - make sure that you or your rod builder uses an underwrapp (a layer of thread under the guide) in between the guide and the rod blank. You DO NOT want the metal foot of the guides seating directly on the rod blank on a prolonged fish fight with a monster 
this step is IMPORTANT.
This set of Heavy Duty FUJI's will run you under $40!!! for a 10-foot shark rod and will handle 130 lb. test with ease.
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog ... rame-Black
-TOP - I highly recommed a roller, a top-of-the-line AFTCO Big Foot roller (will allow passing of Bimini's and swivels thru) will cost you under $24 for the largest size: #36 in silver!
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog ... t-SHD-Tops
- REEL SEAT - Heavy Duty machined aluminum American Tackle number #28 (fits 14/0 and 16/0 reels, and smaller reels) will run you under $22!!!
http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog ... Reel-Seats
- GRIPS - EVA foam - for the foregrip and rear grip will run you approx. $15 combined.
- FINISH, THREAD and OTHER - Clear Epoxy Coat, masking tape, YOUR personal color thread, rod-bond (to secure reel seat to blank) will run you $30! (Note- if you have a rod builder do the job for you, this $30 expense is usually included in the "labor" cost)
FINALLY - Do I do the job or have it done by a professional?
-If I do it I get to learn how easy it really is (just go to Mudhole they have free instructions on line) and I get the satisfaction of fighting a Monster with MY rod!
COST $326!!!
-If I have a professional rod builder do it, I'll ask him to tripple wrapp the guides and to do a fancy butt wrapp and the labor includes the cost of clear coat the full rod, placing the grips, aligning the guides, splining the blank correctly and a superb job!
COST $396!!! (including labor of $100 which BTW is a high estimate)
If you need a quality honest and NOT expensive rod builder I highly recommend Bill @ Fishing Rod Ect. (305) 251-6130.
Good Luck and please feel free to add, debate and contribute to this thread, I certainly welcome forum members that can help me to become a better angler and I hope to do the same for others.
Good fishing, Art.
true that
Great info and thanks for sharing 
TEAM GETCHA GETCHA SHARKON
PLEASE take note - make sure that you or your rod builder uses an underwrapp (a layer of thread under the guide) in between the guide and the rod blank. You DO NOT want the metal foot of the guides seating directly on the rod blank on a prolonged fish fight with a monster this step is IMPORTANT.
Please explain why this is ?
In lighter rods - say up to 30lb. test having the guide seating directly on the blank can be an advantage in that (without an underwrap) the rod blank is more sensitive and you get a better transmission of the bite.
In graphite blanks or composite blanks without underwrap you run the risk of scoring the blank and graphite blanks can be brittle...
In heavy tackle - say shark rods you do not need "sensitivity" and having an underwrap is desirable for protection of the blank itself
and it also anchors the guide better on the blank to avoid guide shift under side torque stress.
Is it all that "IMPORTANT" as I stated, probably not... I have seen your videos fighting jewfish with Cape Haze Rods and they performed flawlessly.
I do prefer an underwrap it gives me a sense of security for the above reasons. JMO.
thanks.
hoggan,
let me explain,it was figuereder long ago that when you put a guide on a blank, the blank has a tendency not to take the guide, like a pillow takes the form of you're head,IT IS MADE OF HARD FIVERGLASS,the underwrap provides for a cushing upon the blank and a seat for the guide foot to make it's bed.when you apply pressure on the top thread it pushes the foot into the bottom thread and there its inbeded,then when apoxy is applied it holds it much better in place then with out the bottom thread,have you noticed on old rod's that the opoxy comes of easier where it is just on the blanks,and a lot harder on the guides.it is like when you put concrete on the floor,the more rebarv the stronger the floor,same principle.also don't forget to check the rod for backbone,some vend more one way than others.and rod lenth,the rod-blank should have a constant arc when you apply the weight of the line you plan to fish, what i mean is no vend half way out of the blank and then total collapse at the last 1/3 of rod.more tip's later.now as for me i did my bit of wrapping my onwe rod's,still have my shark rod,wrapped by you'res trully in 1980. it feels good to say I,I,I,but other people do good work two.right travis.
Yes sir, I try my best
hoggan,
let me explain,
Rod
I'm a little confused... 
Why are you explaining to me a question posted by Travis?
Specially when my opinion and YOURS regarding the use of an underwrap are basically similar.
Travis,
-I KNOW THAT YOUR QUESTION TO ME WAS "LOADED" - YOU JUST WANTED TO CHALLENGE MY OPINION REGARDING THE USE OF AN UNDERWRAP SINCE YOU DO NOT USE AN UNDERWRAP ON THE RODS THAT YOU BUILD.
-NEVER THE LESS I ANSWERRED YOUR QUESTION POLITELY, I EVEN PAID YOU A COMPLIMENT ABOUT YOUR RODS...
-NOW THAT YOU HEARD FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES (Rod and myself) THE REASONS WHY TO USE AN UNDERWRAP
AND THE ONLY THING YOU HAVE TO SAY IS:
Yes sir, I try my best???
P.S. YOUR QUESTION TO ME WAS NOT SINCERE, YOU JUST WANTED TO START SHIIIT WITH ME. I STILL RESPONDED GRACEFULLY AND PAID YOU A COMPLIMENT.
IT IS MY UNDERTANDING THAT SFSC MANAGEMENT DOES NOT WANT ANY BULL SHIT IN THIS FORUM.
DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING THAT YOU WANT TO CONTRIBUTE TO THIS POST WHICH INTENDED PURPOSE WAS TO EDUCATE OTHERS????
I PUT A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT IN THIS THREAD FOR OTHERS TO SEE, I MADE IT EASY FOR EVERYONE TO HAVE DIRECT LINKS TO ALL THE COMPONENTS NEEDED FROM MUDHOLE.
IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WANT TO CONTRUBUTE TO THIS POST SINCE YOU HAVE YOUR OWN ROD BUILDING COMPANY PLEASE GO RIGHT AHEAD - I ASSUME YOU HAVE A GREAT DEAL THAT YOU CAN CONTRIBUTE SINCE YOU ARE A PROFESSIONAL ROD BUILDER, RIGHT?
DO NOT PICK MY POST APART UNLESS YOU ARE COMING FROM A POSITIVE PLACE.
P.S. YOUR QUESTION TO ME WAS NOT SINCERE, YOU JUST WANTED TO START SHIIIT WITH ME. I STILL RESPONDED GRACEFULLY AND PAID YOU A COMPLIMENT.
IT IS MY UNDERTANDING THAT SFSC MANAGEMENT DOES NOT WANT ANY BULL SHIT IN THIS FORUM.
DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING THAT YOU WANT TO CONTRIBUTE TO THIS POST WHICH INTENDED PURPOSE WAS TO EDUCATE OTHERS????
Hoogan,
My question to you was not a way to start shit. I really wanted to know if there was any other reasoning to the under wrap that i did not know. As for the conflict between us that you say we have i dont know where it came from. I dont know how this became between us but i would like for it to end. Well I hope this ends what ever conflict was between us.
well,
So all can read ,we in this site not need to question anybody's methodology,everyone has there preferences,i for one will always ask why someone does something some way,but i will never post a better way to do it.unless asked and then problobly privately,but my post was at both of you,hoogan and cape,i have been fishing since the early 70's,and still don't know shit.i am not trying to be the most popular,or have the most freind's,i just tell it like it is.and yes the first rod's to be wraped where bamboo and only had one wrap. but time developes better tecknics.and there is something to be said for someone who volunteers there time and effort,and the effort that goes into making a $500 rod,but if you get close to the gray area,you will step on someones feeling's, so anyway can we just be freinds.how about a beer sumit on the beach.
I have seen your videos fighting jewfish with Cape Haze Rods and they performed flawlessly.
I do prefer an underwrap it gives me a sense of security for the above reasons. JMO.
thanks.
What conflit are you referring to???
You must be referring to the compliment I paid you above?
hoggan, let me explain,
but other people do good work two.right travis.
I'm still confused, since my "explanation" and your "explanation" were identical.
I supose you must have intended to direct your "explanation" to the person making the inquiry.
hoogan,
first you start with it does'nt have to cost you $500 to build a shark rod,are you saying that cape rod's are not worth $500,or are you saying a rod without bottom wrap is less strong or more likely to brake,just because gator blanks don't come fully fininshed they are not just as good a blank,just because you would do it another way,don't give you the right to put somone elses work down.did you know travis sponsored a shark tourny and gave one of his rod's away,how about you do the same why don't you sponsor a tourney and the price will be you're rod the one you made the fake 552 sticker. he is just tring to make a living,you want to wrap rod's for a living,no i did not think so,so let's just leave it there.
hoogan,
first you start with it does'nt have to cost you $500 to build a shark rod,are you saying that cape rod's are not worth $500,or are you saying a rod without bottom wrap is less strong or more likely to brake,just because gator blanks don't come fully fininshed they are not just as good a blank,just because you would do it another way,don't give you the right to put somone elses work down.did you know travis sponsored a shark tourny and gave one of his rod's away,how about you do the same why don't you sponsor a tourney and the price will be you're rod the one you made the fake 552 sticker. he is just tring to make a living,you want to wrap rod's for a living,no i did not think so,so let's just leave it there.
When did you see me post anything about any one else in this forum???
What fake 552 sticker did I make ???
Putting who's work down, when/where did I wrote that???